How to Fix a Stripped Screw Hole in Wood?

Why a hole strips in the first place: repeatedly removing and reinstalling the same screw, driving into softwood or end grain (the exposed end of a board, which has weaker fiber structure), over-tightening, or using a pilot hole that was too large for the screw all compress or tear the wood around the threads until the screw just spins without holding.

Fix 1 — toothpick/matchstick method (small holes, light-duty)

1. Coat 3–5 wood toothpicks or matchsticks in wood glue.
2. Pack them into the hole as tightly as possible, filling the gap around where the old threads were.
3. Snap or cut them flush with the surface.
4. Let the glue cure fully (usually 24 hours) before driving the screw back in.

Fix 2 — wood filler or two-part epoxy (medium holes or where more strength is needed)

1. Clean out any loose debris from the hole.
2. Fill it with a wood filler or two-part epoxy putty, pressing it in fully.
3. Let it cure completely (check the product's cure time — epoxy is usually faster and stronger than filler).
4. Drill a fresh pilot hole slightly smaller than the screw before driving it back in, rather than driving straight into the cured filler.

Fix 3 — dowel plug (best for load-bearing spots, like cabinet hinges or furniture that takes weight)

1. Drill out the stripped hole to a clean, slightly larger diameter.
2. Glue in a wood dowel cut to fit.
3. Once dry, drill a new pilot hole through the center of the dowel and drive the screw in.

A simpler option when it fits: if there's room, switch to a longer or slightly thicker screw that reaches past the stripped section into solid wood, or bites into fresh threads with a larger diameter — skipping the repair step entirely.

For load-bearing furniture or cabinets, the dowel or epoxy method holds noticeably better long-term than toothpicks, which are best treated as a quick fix for light-duty hardware like a cabinet door hinge or a loose drawer pull.

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