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How to Remove a Stripped Screw?
Updated Home Repair & DIY
Which method to use
| Method | Best for | Tools needed |
|---|---|---|
| Rubber band trick | Lightly stripped heads | A wide rubber band, manual screwdriver |
| Larger manual driver | Lightly to moderately stripped Phillips heads | Manual screwdriver, slightly larger bit |
| Pliers / locking pliers | Screw head sticking up above the surface | Locking pliers (Vise-Grips) |
| Cut a new slot | Fully stripped, head still accessible | Rotary tool or hacksaw, flat-head screwdriver |
| Screw extractor | Fully stripped or recessed screws | Screw extractor kit, drill |
Methods, easiest first
- The rubber band trick. Lay a wide rubber band flat over the screw head, press your screwdriver firmly into it, and turn slowly. The rubber fills the gaps and adds grip — great for lightly stripped screws.
- Press harder with a manual driver. Use a manual screwdriver (not a power drill) and push down hard while turning slowly. A slightly larger bit can bite into a stripped Phillips head.
- Grip the head with pliers. If the screw sticks up at all, clamp locking pliers onto the head and twist the whole screw out.
- Cut a new slot. Use a rotary tool or a hacksaw blade to cut a straight groove across the head, then remove it with a flat-head screwdriver.
- Use a screw extractor. For fully stripped or recessed screws, a screw extractor bit drills into the head and grips it in reverse. Drill a small pilot hole, insert the extractor, and turn counter-clockwise.
Without a screw extractor
If you don't own an extractor kit, the rubber band, manual-driver, and cut-a-new-slot methods above all work without one — the extractor is really only necessary for screws that are fully stripped and flush or recessed, where pliers can't get a grip either.
Screw type matters too. A stripped Phillips head usually responds well to the rubber band or a larger bit. A stripped Torx or hex screw often needs the cut-a-slot method or an extractor sooner, since there's less flat surface for a rubber band to grip.
Tips: Apply steady, slow pressure — fast spinning strips it more. A drop of penetrating oil (like WD-40 or PB Blaster) helps if the screw is also rusted or stuck, and heating the screw head briefly with a soldering iron or lighter can help break a rust bond before you try any method above.
Why screws strip in the first place: it's almost always a mismatch between the screwdriver bit and the screw head (using a slightly wrong Phillips size is the most common cause), applying force at an angle instead of straight down, or using a worn or low-quality bit that slips under torque. Preventing this next time matters as much as fixing it now.
Impact drivers vs regular drills: if you're stripping screws with a power drill, an impact driver (which delivers rotational hits instead of constant spin) is much less likely to strip the head, because it applies torque in pulses rather than a continuous slipping force — worth switching to for anything stuck or rusted.
Preventing it next time: always match the bit size exactly rather than using "close enough," push down firmly before you start turning rather than during, and back off immediately if you feel the bit starting to slip rather than pushing through.
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